Saturday, March 27, 2010

50 questions about Tanzania from 5th and 6th graders

Click Here for a copy of this post as a PDF.

Joel’s 5th and 6th grade class sent 50 questions for me to answer. My answers are based off of what I have observed during my time here, so some of my answers will change the more I see and learn about Tanzania. For many of the questions, I learned new information as well because I had to ask Tanzanians or volunteers who’ve been here longer than I have.

1) Why can’t the people cry in public?

There are no written rules that say people are not allowed to cry in public, but public display of emotion always depends on the culture. The ways and times of expressing emotion can vary with each country. For example, during Tanzanian weddings, the bride and groom are not supposed to smile or look happy. This is completely acceptable here, but if an American bride and groom weren’t smiling, you would think something is terribly wrong. Display of emotion is also different with gender. It’s not uncommon to see girls or women from America cry, but it’s much more noticeable and even shocking when a man is seen crying. This may be because American boys grow up learning that crying shows weakness and boys are supposed to be tough.

2) Why are the houses and technology not as good?

There is just NO MONEY for nice houses or technology. Tanzania is at the developing stage. It has recently gained its independence from British rule, and now is working on building a strong government and functional country. It’s just going to take time for Tanzania to figure out a good system to utilize its resources efficiently. Even the transportation here is not good, with few paved roads. This makes it difficult to transport and sell goods to create a strong economy.

Where I’m living, I’m one of the very few people with a concrete floor and tin roof. Most people here make their houses using a stick frame and they fill the gaps with mud. Bundles of long, dry grass are used for the roof. Often I feel like I’ve gone back a whole century when I walk in my village because these people are living like the American pioneers. There is NO electricity in my entire village. People use kerosene lamps, candles, coal irons, coal stoves, and firewood for cooking. Only 3-5 families have solar power or generators. It’s so different for me, but for many Tanzanians, sitting in the dark is just something they’re used to, and cooking with fire is as easy for them as turning on a stove is for us. Now I hardly miss the modern luxuries (fridge, microwave, lights, indoor plumbing, etc…) because I’ve gotten used to relying on the resources they have here (charcoal, kerosene, firewood, candles).
It’s just the “normal way of life” because all my neighbors are living the same way I am.

3) What type of money is used?

Money here is called Tanzania shillings (TSH). A 500 Tsh is about the same amount as 36 US cents or 2,000 tsh is $1.43. You just divide the amount of shillings by 14 to get the USD amount. So the United States Dollar (USD) is worth a little more than shillings. I’ll definitely bring shillings to show you when I return to the U.S. Shillings are pretty cool looking. Many have pictures of wildlife such as elephants, lions, rhinos, etc.

4) What are common types of foods eaten?

The common foods are really the only options Tanzanians have here. This was one of the more difficult adjustments I had to make while living here because I was used to America where I would have Mexican food for lunch and Italian food for supper. In Tanzania, you eat the same food every day. Ugali is the main staple food. It’s thick stiff corn porridge that you can ball up in your hand and dip it into beans, vegetables, or dried sardines in tomato juice. In my village, they also make ugali out of cassava (a root vegetable, kind of like potatoes) because it grows well here and it’s affordable. There are all types of beans; most are the kind people have to boil for 1.5 hrs. People here have no idea what “green beans” are since they are only sold and eaten in bigger cities. There’s rice of course, and sometimes for special occasions, people put a bunch of seasonings in the rice like cinnamon and cardamom, and potatoes or beef. This type of rice is called “pilau” and it’s considered the “rich man’s” meal because most people can’t afford to buy meat. I rarely eat meat just because I worry about keeping it fresh without a refrigerator when I don’t have time to cook it right away. In order to eat chicken, I would have to go buy a live chicken, butcher it, and clean it. A goat is slaughtered and sold about every day in my village. People eat all parts of the goat. I even saw teeth floating in the goat soup, but still can’t believe anyone would be able to chew and digest goat teeth. I’ll have to see it to believe it.

There are all different kinds of fruits here. Bananas, mangos, jack fruit, custard apples, sour sop, papaya, pineapple, limes. However, these fruits are ripe only during their season (except bananas are year round).

5) What kinds of holidays are celebrated?

There are both Christian and Muslim people living in Tanzania, therefore the holidays reflect both religions. Christmas is celebrated, but there is no Santa Claus. I have shown Tanzanians a picture of Santa and they just laugh because he looks funny to them; they often don’t know who Santa Claus is. It’s also rare to see any “Christmas trees”, however they have a tree with red flowers that usually first blooms in December, so it’s called the Christmas tree. There is Boxing Day December 26th, and this came from the British. This is just a day of exchanging gifts, but most families are unable to afford gifts to exchange. Muslims celebrate Christmas as well. Most Tanzanians eat pilau for Christmas

Easter is also celebrated, and again the only main tradition is to go to church and then eat pilau. There are no Easter eggs or bunnies…I’ll hopefully have the chance to share some of our country’s holiday traditions, like having the kids go on an egg hunt.

New Year’s was a big celebration in my village, lasting for four days. For New Year’s Eve villagers danced, sang, and ran to the beat of the drums going throughout the village until it struck midnight. On the third night, people danced and sang with the drums for the entire night until the next afternoon. And on the fourth day, people ran around drumming and dancing, and they threw baby powder at each other. Not sure what the significance of the powder was. I think it’s similar to how Americans throw confetti at each other during celebrations.

Muslims have Ramadan, the month of fasting. It’s used sort of for the same purpose as Lent is for Christians, since both practices are used to give up something in order to be reminded and focused on God. Muslims fast for one month, starting when they see the new moon and ending when they see the new moon a month later. Not all people fast, especially not pregnant women, elderly, young children, and the sick. The majority of Muslims fast by eating before the sun goes up and after the sun goes down. So during the day, no food or water is allowed. Again, not everyone is able to do this and it’s like Lent, some Christians follow it more strictly then others.

There’s also a celebration for the birthday of Mohammed and a day of celebration for the Pilgrimage to Mecca. I have yet to participate in one of these celebrations. I’m just learning about it as I go, so I can’t explain these Muslim holidays in much detail. The few things I do know about Islam is that their holy book, the Koran, shares the same first five books of the Bible. Their day of worship is Friday, so often kids get done with school at noon on Fridays. Muslims pray five times throughout the day. The first prayer begins at 5am and the last prayer might end around 7pm. Men are allowed to have as many as four wives.

Independence Day is December 9th, when Tanzania regained its independence from the British. Their independence involved just the signing of papers, there was no fighting. The small island of Zanzibar is also a part of Tanzania. Union Day is celebrated when Zanzibar and Tanganyika were united in 1965 and became The United Republic of Tanzania. There are several holidays to honor past presidents. They also celebrate a business day July 7 and farmers’ day August 8. Usually families just take a break from work and come together to eat a big meal. For farmers’ day villages often set up booths of different agricultural information, kind of like Husker Harvest Days but nowhere near as advanced.

6.) What does an average meal consist of?

The average meal depends on where you live in Tanzania and what foods are available in each region. Rice and beans is the most common meal often served with a little bit of leafy greens and sometimes a banana (people here enjoy mixing their banana with rice and beans). In some areas there is not much rice or it is too expensive for families, so they rely on ugali. Ugali is corn flour mixed into boiling water and then stirred until it’s stiff and thick. It doesn’t have much of a taste, but you just use your right hand to ball it up and dip it into beans or leafy greens. Leafy greens are taken from sweet potato, pumpkin, or cassava leaves, as well as Chinese cabbage and spinach.

On occasion people enjoy a delicious meal of chipsi,: it’s potato wedges fried like French fries, or fried and then placed in an egg omelet. However, this is hardly ever made in the homes since it’s more expensive and often only eaten when a person is traveling or there’s a special occasion.

7. How many days do the kids go to school?

Kids go to school five days a week, Monday-Friday.

8. How long in the year do kids go to school?

It depends on the school but most schools are open 190 days a year. The students have a 1.5 month break in June/July and again in December/January. In September there’s a 2 week break and there’s a one week break for Easter. There are also various Tanzanian holidays that they take time off of school for.

9.) Do you go into the schools?

Yes. I will be working with primary students standard 5-7 (same as 5th-7th graders) and secondary students (high school). I’ll be talking about life skills which consist of good decision making, resisting peer pressure, HIV/AIDS facts, health and nutrition, gardening techniques, etc. I also hope to start a culture club where I can share music, art, traditions, and pictures from America, and the kids can share with me their different tribal and Tanzanian traditions.

10. Do they have weekends?

Most definitely! There are a few schools that are in session for half the day Saturday. However, for the most part people relax a little more on weekends. People rarely leave their village since they can’t afford to travel. It’s difficult for women to completely relax because there are still meals to cook, dishes to clean, clothes to wash, and firewood and water to fetch. The kids are able to help out at home more on weekends.

11) What do they do when they’re not in school?

Girls often help their mothers with cleaning, cooking, washing, and watching over younger siblings. The girls often are seen carrying their younger sibling on their backs. However, girls also have time to play jump rope, a game sort of like hop scotch, and numerous hand clapping/singing games. The younger boys enjoy rolling a bucket lid or small circular object with a stick. The older boys like to play soccer. I rarely see the girls play soccer or any sport.

12. What kinds of sports do they play? Do they know football?

Soccer is the most popular sport here in Tanzania. It’s called the “ball of the foot.” Tanzanians get confused when I say soccer or American football. I recently received footballs from America. When my neighbor boys were attempting to air them up, they were surprised about the shape of the football; they thought it would be round. My village has a nice soccer field (in other words, a level area with goals on both ends). Therefore teams from surrounding towns come to play at least once a week. I always know when a game is going on because all the men who usually sit around the bus stand or market area are at the game. I also can hear the drums that the men play and dance to throughout the entire game. The few women that attend the game are usually there to sell fried bread or a potato pastry. There are always guys selling peanuts, mangoes or whatever fruit is in season. Soccer matches cost 100tsh (about 7 cents) to get in, but women always tell me they can’t afford to go watch.

Soccer is the main professional sport played in TZ. However another very popular sport in the schools is net ball. I have yet to learn all the rules, but it’s just like basketball with hoops on both sides of a court/grass area. However, instead of dribbling you throw to teammates, and you can only take 3 steps before having to pass it on. I’ll have to show you all how to play it once I get back to the states. It’s pretty fun.

Table tennis (ping pong), basketball, and volleyball are sports a few villagers in my area recognize. However, the equipment needed to play is often not available. I plan to get a volleyball team going, and I’ll also introduce the idea of American football to the students here, starting by teaching them how to throw. Students also have no concept of baseball, so hopefully I’ll have a chance to show them how to play if I’m able to find equipment.

13. Do animals just roam around? If so, what kinds of animals are there?

I’ve asked this question in both my villages. Really there aren’t near as many animals roaming here as there are in Nebraska. One of the teachers I work with had one of her sheep killed by a hyena. The only evidence was the tracks left by the hyena. Tanzanians build high wooden huts specifically to protect their goats, chickens, and sheep from hyenas. There are squirrel-like animals that hang out in Namiyonga; I don’t know what specific type of squirrel it is. In some areas of Tanzania, monkeys are as common as raccoons are in Nebraska. There aren’t any monkeys around my village, which is probably a good thing. Monkeys are often pests, like raccoons, because they eat people’s crops. Villagers set out traps to catch and kill the monkeys to protect their crops. Unfortunately there are a lot of other pests here: snails, scorpions, tarantellas, snakes, rats, cockroaches, termites, and all different kinds of ants…some which bite hard! I have not seen any tarantellas yet, and my fingers are crossed that I won’t ever see one. There is no money here for people to eliminate these pests with poison like we do in America. There are also a lot of lizards. I have three different types of lizards that live in and around my house. One type of lizard is about the length of my forearm and has a bright blue head. The others are smaller and either gray or brown. There are many different kinds of lizards depending on the region, and some are really colorful. I don’t have any books to identify types of lizards, but hopefully I’ll be able to find out names later. I’m trying to find ways to appreciate these pests. Lizards are good because they eat insects. The cockroaches and flying termites are good snacks for my cat. People here even eat termites as a snack. They fry the termites with a little oil and seasoning. I’ve tasted half of one, but I couldn’t get past the crunchiness of it and I wasn’t able to forget I was eating a bug. These termites make their homes out of huge dirt mounds. I’ve got a picture of a termite mound on my blog. I also have a picture showing the wings the termites left the morning after they swarmed into my courtyard.

There are hippos and crocodiles down by the river about 10 miles from Newala town. Leopards live off the plateau I’m on and along the coast. The leopards feast on cattle and do not like to live in heavily populated areas. They’re hardly ever seen because they only come out at night and are very wary of people. Villagers know that leopards and hyenas can take a young child if a child is left unattended after dark.

14. What types of “wildlife” are there? How far are they from the villages?

The wildlife most of you probably think of when you think of Africa live in national parks. I live quite far from any national park; maybe a day and a half’s journey. However, I have traveled on the highway that passes through the Mkumi national park. People see elephants, giraffes, buffalo, antelope, impalas, and monkeys from the road. Sometimes the bus has to stop and let a herd of elephants cross the road. Villages are located on the boundaries of the park, but no one lives in the parks. There are herders, a tribe known as the Maasi, who can bring their livestock into the parks to graze. However, they have to leave before dark. Villages near parks often have their crops destroyed by wildlife such as hippos. However people continue to live there because that’s where they have always lived.

Wildlife used to roam all around Tanzania maybe 30-40 years ago. I have a relative who has worked here as a nun for 50 years in Tanzania. She said she could hear the lions below her window when she worked at a hospital, yet they would leave before morning. This was a normal occurrence and people just knew better than to go out at night.

15. What crops do they plant?

The weather in Tanzania is typically warm throughout the whole country with the exception of some of the northern and central regions of TZ where temps get cold enough for frost in the morning. Since TZ is close to the equator, the timing of the sun is consistent all year round. There’s no daylight savings here. There are rainy and dry seasons. The rains begin Nov/Dec, which is when most people plant. Harvest takes place around June and July. So timing is the exact opposite of Nebraska.

There are a lot of crops grown in Tanzania, but they vary depending on the region. This is a list of foods that are grown in or around my region: corn, cassava, egg plant, cabbage, chinese cabbage, onions, tomatoes, ginger, pumpkin, squash, mangoes, bananas, avocados, guava, peanuts, sugar cane, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, all kinds of beans (most of which you have to boil in order to eat), sour sop, pineapple, rice, cucumbers, papaya, custard apples, oranges, green peppers, carrots, passion fruit, limes and cashews. I’m sure I’ve forgotten to mention a few crops. A lot of the fruit grows on its own; it’s not planted by hand.

16. What school books/supplies do they have/use?

The kids only bring a notebook and pen with them to class. The teachers write all lessons on the chalkboard. The only books in the school are the few the teachers use to teach from. I have yet to see a student holding a textbook. Tanzanian children learn a lot of what they know from watching and helping their parents and listening to stories from their elders.

17. What type of government do they have? What is their “leader” called? President?

Originally it was socialism, so people voted for the party and the party appointed the officers. Now it’s a democracy. There is no written rule, but Tanzanians generally try to keep a rotation of Christian and Muslim presidents. The president serves for 5 years and can be reelected for another 5 years. There is a House of Parliament and a prime minister.

18. What types of things do they learn about in school?

Kids learn geography, history, science, math, Kiswahili, English, work study (students learn skills such as weaving, drawing, cooking, farming), There always seems to be a lack of qualified teachers, especially in the south since it’s the poorest area. A lot of times kids just sit outside or in the classroom without anyone teaching.

19. How large is the average family? How large is the average village?

In my region most people are Muslim. It is common for a Muslim man to have at least 2 or 4 wives and a total of 10-20 children. Most men in Newala have two wives. My village, Namiyonga, has 1500 people and my first village, Chiungutwa, had 5000 people.

20. What is the life expectancy?

There is a man here in Newala who had 14 kids and only 4 survived. Many kids die from malaria and malnutrition. In some cases, parents don’t want to name their child or start counting the age of the child for a few years just because so many die at a young age. Most Tanzanians don’t know their age or date of birth. Some Tanzanians remember the year they were born, but birthdays here are rarely celebrated. A recent development is that Tanzanians are required to get birth certificates. But many mothers still give birth at their homes so no birth certificate is issued. Many girls are young when they start having kids, 13-14 yrs old. These young girls often have long difficult labor which is hard on their body and sometimes they die during labor. I don’t know the average life expectancy in Tanzania, but the hard work men and women do to make a living, such as farming, and the poor health care and nutrition, along with the HIV/AIDS epidemic greatly affects their health and shortens the number of years they live.

21. Do they have pizza?

Yes, but only at the tourist restaurants in bigger cities. Almost every ingredient for pizza is hard to find here. Most Tanzanians have no clue what cheese, ground beef, or tomato sauce with seasoning is.

22. Do you talk to them about your life in America?

All the time! I try to explain the holidays we have (Valentine’s Day, Halloween, 4th of July, etc) and how we celebrate them. I talk about how we celebrate weddings, birthdays, etc… Tanzanians are always asking me what food we eat and if we wear khangas (the material women wrap around their waist). Weather is also a common topic, and they are always baffled by the pictures of snow and ice I show them from Nebraska winters. People here love Obama, and the music and movie celebrities from America.

23. What types of transportation are there?

Transportation is a problem here. Few roads are paved; most roads are in worse condition than the gravel roads we have in Nebraska. The vehicles driven are in even worse shape. Most Tanzanians can’t afford a bicycle, let alone a car. The main mode of transportation is usually by bike, foot, or daladala. A daladala is a small bus that is packed to the max with people. There is no capacity limit here, or maybe there is and bus drivers just slip police a few extra shillings to get off the hook. I use daladalas to get to the bigger cities. I often have to stand up the entire way because the bus is so full. I hardly worry about falling over because we all get packed in so tight. It took awhile to get used to having strangers so close to me, but now it’s a normal thing to have someone’s armpit in my face and a chicken next to my feet. Now that I’m living in Namiyonga, there isn’t even a daladala that goes through my village. There are only three old pickups that go through on the way to Newala town (where I can go to the bank, post office and food market) and only between 6:30-7:15am. They fill these pickups even more than they do the daladalas. Passengers ride standing up in the back of the pickup holding onto side bars. Sometimes it gets extremely uncomfortable with so many people squeezed together under the hot sun. However I’m lucky that my village is only a 20 minute drive from Newala. When I know I don’t have to take a heavy load, I ride my bike to town which takes about an hour. There are also motorcycles and small covered motored vehicles (bijaji). Peace Corps does not allow me to take a motorcycle because there have been too many accidents, but I use bijajis to travel in bigger cities. Big buses are used to travel to the capital city, Dar, and other big towns. There are a few small airports in TZ and are comparable to the size of the Omaha Airport or much smaller.

24. Do they have eye glasses if needed?

Yes, eye glasses are available. However, many people who are in need of glasses can’t afford them.

25. What types of doctors are available?

There aren’t specialized doctors here as there are in the states. Qualifications are a lot different; many doctors just need 2-3 years training, so really they’re more like nurses or physician assistants. Health care is definitely a big problem here, especially in the south because it is the poorest part of the country.

26. What do they do for fun?

I live in the region of the Makonde tribe, and they LOVE to sing and dance to drums. That’s mainly how they celebrate all holidays, by holding big drumming fests. Soccer is also a big deal here. The men especially like to go watch local town teams play on the main soccer field of Namiyonga or listen to a soccer match on the radio. The boys like to play soccer. The girls play net ball and I often see them playing “house” where they pretend to cook and sometimes have an actual tiny fire going with a coconut shell as the pot. It’s like a mini kitchen they set up using all the scraps they can find. It’s really cute. Right now it’s watermelon and pumpkin season, so little kids like to tie a string to a hollowed out melon or pumpkin and drag it around.

One thing I really enjoy about Tanzanian culture is the amount of time they spend socializing and visiting with friends and family. In my village there are only a few televisions powered by generators at night to show videos. So there isn’t a whole lot to distract them from visiting with each other. I usually try to walk around my village at 4 pm because that’s when everyone has returned from the farms and finished house work (besides supper which they don’t eat until 8 pm or later).

27. What types of chores do the kids do?

The kids really do a lot of chores, but they actually seem to enjoy them. Even I don’t mind washing my clothes and dishes by hand. On average, the kids are up and sweeping in and around the house by 6:30 am. They help with mopping the floors (or just sweeping if they live in a mud hut), washing dishes and clothes, ironing clothes using hot coals, fetching and cutting wood for cooking, running to the town market to grab needed ingredients, cooking, and fetching water. These chores are done by both boys and girls, but usually girls seem to get the bigger share of the house workload.

28. What is the average age for marrying? Do they have arranged marriages?

In the south, many girls get married after they finish primary (elementary) school because they failed their standard 7 (grade 7) exam and can’t move on to secondary school (high school). These standard 7 girls are only around 13 years old. Life is tough and they don’t see any other options they can pursue besides getting married and having babies. In the Makonde tribe/Muslim tradition, they use a middle person or match maker to arrange marriages. A man looking for a wife normally walks around with a good male friend who knows which girls are married and how old they are. The friend points out whatever girl he thinks the man might be interested in. If the man is interested in the girl, the friend goes to talk to the girl’s uncle (brother of the father) or if he’s unavailable, he’ll talk to the aunt (sister of the father). They negotiate a dowry (the price to pay the father for his daughter). A dowry just depends on what the friend and uncle/aunt agree on. For example, a girl can be worth 3 goats (more than a 3 month salary). The lighter the girl’s skin, the more money she’s worth. Therefore it’s common for girls to bleach their skin.

29. Do they have beauty products or any other similar luxuries? What about jewelry?

Yes, the women use a product almost like Vaseline to smooth and straighten their hair. Lotion for dry skin is used a lot. Perfumes are popular. I have yet to see a decent deodorant that I’d be interested in buying. There are shampoos and toothpaste. Women can buy cosmetics, but they often use charcoal to draw on eyebrows and use as eyeliner.

Tanzanian women definitely love jewelry. Many of the women in my village wear a string of pearls or a short necklace with a few beads. They also like to wear big earrings. The Maasi, a tribe known for herding cows and making beads, sell beautiful colorful beaded jewelry. Unfortunately there are few Maasi in my area, but I can always find them selling jewelry on the streets in bigger cities. I occasionally see women wear jewelry made out of coconut or wood, and I bought a necklace for myself that was made from a coconut shell

Babies here always have a necklace and bracelet with a small cloth piece that has “medicine” in it. This is supposed to protect the child from all illnesses and diseases.

30. How do they wear their hair?

Primary and secondary school students are required to shave their heads, girls included. This is done because it’s seen as being clean. I rarely see any Tanzanians with long hair. Women like to shave their heads because it’s easy to keep clean and it’s cooler. Also, it would be hard to obtain water to keep their hair clean during the dry season. I also see women braiding each other’s hair almost every day. Since most women are Muslim in my region, they cover their heads with a long cloth. Christian women as well like to wrap their heads using a scarf or khanga. Men keep their hair very short, and some grow beards because of Muslim tradition.

31. Do they have their own cultural dances?

Yes. They love dancing to the drums, it’s a big part of their Makonde tribe tradition. The women and men often dance in separate circles. None of the moves are too hard; I’ve been able to join in and do most of the steps. There are also dances related to the Muslim faith. I’ve gone to one dance where women danced in different costumes and even drank raw goat blood. Supposedly they were dancing to get the devil out of a young woman there. Women and men also make this really cool deep grunting noise from the back of their throats. It almost sounds like a large angry animal about to charge. I’ve heard them make this noise at both Muslim weddings and funerals, but women and men never sing together. They always sit, eat, dance, and sing separately.

32. Do they have pets? If so, what? Do they give them names?

My neighbor kids and students are scared of my cat. They’re just not used to being around a cat. The kids act calmer around a rat because seeing rats is an everyday thing to them. Many Tanzanians are deathly afraid of dogs. Most dogs here are wanderers and fend for themselves. I remember when I was living with my host family and my host dad started throwing rocks at an approaching dog. I was offended when seeing this but realized it was probably safer to assume all dogs are aggressive and mean and to keep a safe distance from them. The few dogs that do live with families serve as guard dogs and they aren’t any nicer. Tanzanians are always surprised to see pictures of my dog, Teddy. I even had one person ask if he was a lion. I guess they’re just not used to seeing a dog with so much hair. The dogs here are usually pretty small and have short hair.

Cats are even more rare here than dogs, and the cats that are around are used solely for their mousing skills. Tanzanians do not name their pets, and they always find it odd when I ask them what their cat, chicken, or goat’s name is. They find it really funny that I named my cat Issa, not only because I named my cat, but also because Issa is the Muslim word for Jesus. I didn’t know this at the time when my neighbor girl picked out the name. So yes, my cat’s name is Jesus.

33. Do they get hair cuts? If so, what is used to cut it? What do they do with the hair that’s cut?

All school kids have to have their heads shaved. Often a guy comes around with a short metal razor and does it by hand (not with an electric razor like we use). Nothing is done with the hair afterwards…not that I know of. They usually don’t let their hair grow out, so there’s not much hair to cut.

34. How do they bathe?

They use a bucket and a cup. Many Tanzanians also use a corn cob to scrub. I definitely miss having a shower with a hot and cold water knob. As long as I heat up my bath water on the fire beforehand, a bucket bath really is not too bad.

35. How are you enjoying your life with the kids?

The kids are a lot of fun. The girls come over almost every evening and offer to help sweep, wash dishes and clothes, and cook. One day the girls even helped me hoe weeds in my garden. They really don’t seem to mind the work, and it’s fun for them to watch a foreigner (me) do the same work they do every day…with a little less grace and familiarity. It’s always pretty amusing for them to see me sweep with my western broom or peel a potato with my triangular shaped peeler. They are especially entertained when I cook because they’ve never seen measuring cups/spoons, spatula, peeler, or the few different knives I brought over from America. I enjoy introducing the kids to new things because they are so sheltered in their village. Many have never been in a car before or even traveled to the neighboring town. I love how excited the kids get when they see and hear popcorn popping, or play a simple game like “Duck, Duck, Goose”. I’ve also held several dance parties using my mp3 player and loud speakers. They LOVE dancing and listening to the music. I’ll have to get a recording of them trying to country line dance. We all have a lot of fun!

36. Is violence a problem?

Tanzania always prides itself on being a peaceful country. It’s independence from the British was done over a cup of tea, no fighting involved. However that doesn’t mean there isn’t any violence in TZ. Violence just comes in different forms. In schools, children are beaten with a stick if they arrive to school late. And in some cases, students are punished for giving the wrong answer. In the home there is violence just like there is in the states. The only difference is that there is no help for women and children if their husband or father is abusive. Men are seen as the ruler of the house and allowed to discipline their wives whenever they think it is necessary. Hopefully Tanzania too will evolve over time so women and girls are empowered and have more opportunities. However, it will take a long time to change this since the Tanzania and Muslim culture has men’s role as the decision maker and authority figure. Women have a lower status than men.

37. Joel said that they do not have many sweets? Do you miss that? Is that something we could send for them to try?

Oh yes! I miss chocolate cake! They do have candy, soda, and plenty of fruit. They also put a lot of sugar in their tea. And in many parts of TZ, they can buy and chew on sugar cane itself. I really don’t miss sweets all that much because I get a good intake of sugar through fruits and tea. However there are days when I crave a chocolate bar or ice cream. These things I can get in the bigger towns, but not in my village. I can make cake and brownies from scratch and bake over a fire but it’s a lot of work. The kids loved the chocolate frosting and yellow cake I made for Christmas. If you want you can definitely send over a box cake mix or something like smores that would be fun for the kids to try.

38. What types of jobs do the people have?

There are a variety of jobs here. There are carpenters, weavers (for floor mats, hats, rope beds), clothes and shoe tailors, bicycle and vehicle repairmen, police, village government officials, teachers, shop owners, produce sellers, salesmen, restaurant workers, bakers, drivers, road construction workers, barbers, hair dressers, wood carvers, juice makers, etc. I’ve never seen a woman carpenter, shoe tailor, bicycle/vehicle repairman, road construction worker, wood carver, or bus driver. Most of the time the woman’s job is in the home or selling chapatti (tortilla-like bread) or maandazi (doughnuts) near or around their home. Almost everything is done by hand. The only machines used are mainly those that grind corn into flour for ugali; and even that is usually done by hand using a large mortar and pestle.

39. Do they have publications of newspapers or magazines?

Yes, although there are not very many and they’re mostly from the big cities. Therefore news from small villages is rarely covered. Villagers aren’t likely to pick up a newspaper anyway, since reading is often seen more as work than relaxation.

40. What types of footwear do they wear?

Flip-flops are the most affordable footwear. They also have croc-like shoes that are made out of a light foam material. I’m always amused with the shoes the men wear made out of car tires. Occasionally I’ll see women wearing heels to church. Usually in the village everyone has on flip flops or they go barefoot. Many kids go barefoot when playing, but they are required to wear shoes as part of their school uniform. Kids go barefoot often because their parents either don’t have money for decent shoes and/or the kids prefer to go barefoot anyway. Because the weather is a little cooler in my village (usually below the 90s) kids can walk without shoes. However, in my first village the sand would burn their feet because the sun was so hot.

41. Do they have types of board games? Toys?

Yes, they have one main board game but I’ve only seen the men play it. We have it in America, I think it’s called Mancala. It consists of a wooden board with wide holes carved in it. The men take turns dropping pebbles or markers into the holes. Table pool is popular for the young men and boys. The pool tables are usually set up outside underneath a thatch roof and it costs less than 10 cents to play. The guys also play checkers with bottle caps. The younger kids have to get creative to make their own toys. I’ve seen balls made out of plastic bags wrapped together tightly. A wire hoop with a stick to push it around is common. I rarely see any dolls or stuffed animals. I think I’ve seen only one doll in my entire village so far. The kids also use hollowed rinds of watermelon and pumpkin by connecting a string to it and pulling it around like it’s some sort of vehicle. The boys also make some really cool looking cars out of mud.

42. What kinds of clothing are worn (during certain times of the year)?

Khangas are the main type of clothing. These are just long sheets of cloth that you can wrap around your waist, head and shoulders. Many women here cover up completely in khangas because it’s Muslim policy and tradition. A woman’s knees must never show. Dresses can also be made out of khangas. A lot of American clothes are sent over here. I guess there used to be a small store just full of Nebraska Husker gear a few years back in a village in my region. I doubt if it still exists but I always keep an eye out for Nebraska gear. I also wonder if I’ll ever run into something I gave to Goodwill or Salvation Army years back. Maybe Tanzanian kids are getting good use out of your used clothes too. Supposedly during the cold season (June-August) people wear light jackets, however the clothing remains the same. The temps are much more consistent all year round then they are in Nebraska.

43. What materials are used for writing on? Slates?

The students have a notebook and a pen that they are required to buy and bring to school every day. If a student forgets to bring one of these things, s/he will most likely have to hold out his/her hand so the teacher can slap it hard with a stick. The teachers use the chalkboard in front of the class to write down the lesson for the day.

44. Do they have bikes to ride? Scooters?

Yes, many of the high school students have bikes to travel outside of Namiyonga to go to school. Some villagers have bikes to travel 10 km to Newala to buy and sell things. Bikes here are not seen as a source of entertainment like they are used in the states. Bikes here are the main mode of transportation, so people try to take really good care of them and keep a close eye on them because bikes get stolen easily. I’m not sure what kind of scooter you are thinking of. We have motorized covered scooters that I often take when I’m traveling in bigger towns. These scooters are called bijaji. I have a picture of a bijaji on my blog that I took at the Masasi bus station.

45. Why do they sweep the ground?

Tanzanians sweep every day inside and all around the outside of their houses. Their brooms are usually made of long reeds from down by the river which they bundle and tie together with a rope. My neighbor girls who come to help often fight over who gets to use my “American” broom (it has a long handle and colored bristles) because it’s just so new and different to them. It’s fun to watch them sweep because they look so awkward holding it. Probably how I look using their broom to sweep because I really have to bend over low. Sweeping is a big part of their culture. They sweep in patterns, kind of how Americans get obsessed with mowing their yard. It’s just their way of keeping things neat and tidy.

46. Are the people treated equally? Do they have classes of people?

There aren’t necessarily classes of people, but men are treated with a lot more respect than women. Men are the decision makers of the house, and women are responsible for the housework and raising the children. More opportunities are opening up for women, but very slowly. There are now some women working as policemen, postal officers, bank tellers, teachers, etc. However, Tanzanian women still have a long road ahead of them to get to the same level of freedom that women in America have. Right now, women’s role is to stay home, which isn’t necessarily bad. There aren’t exactly classes of people, but different tribes may be favored or looked down upon. Most people will try to marry only a person of their tribe. Apparently the Makonde tribe in my region are looked down upon by other Tanzanians mainly because they lack good education and they are very poor.

47. Do they “hunt” for animals? What kind of animals do they hunt?

Rarely do Tanzanians hunt because there isn’t a lot of wildlife roaming around. Most wildlife lives in national parks, and although you can go there to hunt, most Tanzanians can’t afford to travel or get the hunting license required for each individual animal. There are wild hogs that some people hunt and guinea fowl as well that can be found off the plateau. The American couple living in Newala town hunt cape buffalo, wart hog, impala, wilde beast, and harte beast. They travel a long way to get to where these animals live. Last night I ate taco meat made out of cape buffalo. It was pretty tasty! I’ve also eaten impala filet, which is good and tender and is called the “best African beef”.

48. What are the temperatures/weather like year round?

Temps vary depending on where you are in Tanzania. Tanzania is a huge country. I believe I read somewhere that its size is comparable to 3 Californias. The weather is a lot cooler where I’m living just because I live on a plateau, which has a higher elevation. The summer season is usually in the 80’s and up to the 90’s with high humidity. The winter season can get as cold as the mid 50’s with high winds on occasion, especially at night. It is very hot and humid by the coast. However, there are places that get so hot during the summer (like my first village, Chiungutwa) that volunteers said they slept on their concrete floor because it just got too hot to sleep on a mattress.

49. Do “tourists” visit?

In my area, the deep south, we rarely see any tourists because there are no tourist sites. The roads are bad, so that is partly what keeps the southern part of Tanzanian untouched by tourism. This doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see in the South; it’s beautiful and there are plenty of natural attractions to see. However, there are no nice accommodations, and until there are, few tourists will feel like braving the unknown in the deep south.

50. How do they do their laundry? How often?

Most Tanzanians do their laundry by hand. Depending on the water situation, some women take their laundry to the river or local water pump. In Newala, people have to collect enough rain water for washing. Others fetch water and carry it to their house to wash their clothing. The frequency of doing laundry just depends on how many people are in the family and how clean you want to be. Personally, I only do laundry once every two weeks, but by waiting that long I make laundry a whole day’s job!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Snakes, Hyenas, Home Improvement, Wedding

Feb 17, 2010
Today when I returned from my morning jog and started on the dishes from last night’s rice and beans, I heard the primary school students from across my yard start screaming and whacking their brooms. Curious to see what the commotion was all about, I stopped what I was doing and walked across my yard to where the students were all standing, their brooms in hand and eyes on the ground. I then saw what used to be a small black snake. Hopefully it’s mama isn’t anywhere close because that snake was a cobra.
I’m fortunate that Tanzanians hate snakes just as much as I do. That’s one reason why they take time to clear all the grass and trash around their houses, to keep snakes from getting into their homes. I was told there aren’t many snakes here, yet I was also told that snakes are the only wildlife around. Apparently there are hyenas as well. Last night teacher Ajabu’s sheep disappeared, and the only evidence was the paw prints of the hyena who took it. I also saw those tracks on the path I was running on this morning. The prints were so big I thought for sure they belonged to a leopard or some wild cat. But I stopped a local man and he said they were hyena tracks only. Hyenas here are like coyotes in Nebraska. They don’t usually harm people, but they can really hurt the livestock. So people here make sure to build high wooden huts to keep their goats, sheep, and chickens in at night. The hyena that visited Ajabu at night had to walk into the center of town to take her sheep, so hyenas must not be too intimidated by people.
These last few months I’ve really been doing a lot of work on my house. My newly built cement storage well is now full of rain water. I have some guys painting the inside of my house and hopefully later they’ll paint the outside as well. I just need to wait awhile before I have enough money to buy the supplies. It’s been great to get color on the walls. Living with only concrete made my house seem a lot darker and dreary. I’ll be excited to have it all painted and dried; it’s been a hassle trying to avoid touching wet paint. My poor cat somehow got blue on his nose and paws, and he’s been trying to clean it off all day. However, it’s oil paint, so I might have a blue cat for a while!
As I mentioned earlier, teacher Mpodi will be getting married this month. I just got an invitation and I bought the same khanga that about twelve of us women will have sewn into similar dresses or what I like to call “moo moos” to wear for the wedding. Should be pretty exciting. Supposedly a vehicle will come pick us up in Namiyonga so the whole wedding party will just pile in the back like livestock. Then we’ll head to Newala (a 15 minute drive) and begin the party/ceremony. Mpodi doesn’t even really know what’s all being planned for the wedding. Guess that’s her fiancé’s job. It’s a Muslim wedding, and Mpodi said she’ll either wear an orange dress or blue dress, just depends what turns out better once the tailor has them finished. Mpodi has three kids: a set of twin girls (9 yrs old) and one boy, O’Malley (12 yrs). I asked O’Malley what he thought about his mom getting married. He said he was happy for her, yet he knows nothing about his future stepdad. Guess that’s not a necessary step here. This fiancé has a wife already in Dar, but he does work in Newala too, so he wants a wife for Newala.
Ha, after I paid the guy who painted my house, he went out and bought himself a wife with that money! I think he said his wife cost him 40,000 shillings (around $30). Now he’s looking to buy himself a second wife, so maybe that will happen after I pay him for painting the rest of my house. The bride price always varies; just depends on what the father of the bride asks for.
Today was a fun day for the women and girls in my village. Around 4 pm, about 150 women gathered under the 4 big mango trees in town and danced to drums. It only lasted a few hours because the women needed to get home to cook the evening meal for their husbands and families. However, they really danced like there’d be no tomorrow. I got numerous requests to join in the dance, but I think I’ll wait till the next drumming party to make a fool of myself. It looked like a lot of fun though. Hopefully I’ll get the video I took posted soon so you all can see it as well. The video won’t do the real dancing justice, but it’s the best I can do.

Thoughts about Home and PCV Service

February 11, 2010
I just finished reading through the messages many of you had written in the daily scripture book. I’m very blessed to have such a caring community of friends and family back home. Your words really touched my heart. It’s difficult some days to see the whole picture mainly because I focus on taking things as they come day by day. So it was encouraging to read your thoughts and prayers for me. I don’t feel like what I’m doing here is anything extraordinary or too difficult. I just think I’m lucky to have the opportunity to work in Tanzania, and experience a different culture. Hopefully I’ll be able to make an impact on my villagers as much as they have done for me. The hardest part of this experience isn’t the rats and lizards, everyday rice and beans, Kiswahili and local tribal language, lack of electricity or running water, or hot and humid climate. All this is what I expected to be part of the experience and all these things I’ve adjusted to over time. However, I will never be able to fully adjust to living so far from family and friends. I still miss home, the people, and the familiar everyday things.
It’s funny because even other Peace Corps volunteers in my group can’t relate to my life in Nebraska. Most volunteers are from larger cities, so it’s impossible for them to fathom a town of only 150 people, a high school class of 16, or a family that lives on the same hill (my grandparents, uncle & aunt, & my family). Even more shocking is that I come from a conservative and religious background. The missionary in my area described me as an “unusual Peace Corps volunteer.” Ha! Sometimes I experience more cultural shock from my own group of PCV’s than what I experience in the village. However, no matter our differences of beliefs and opinions, all the PCVs have big hearts and good intentions to help their villagers.
Today I’m feeling more energetic about my role here in TZ because my Ward Executive Officer/counterpart, Agnes, and I are planning my work schedule for this year. So far I have two days a week teaching English to 6th graders and high school students, and one day a week teaching health and environment issues to high school students and 6th and 7th graders. Friday I’ll be working with Agnes to teach others how to build a permaculture garden (this involves double digging, using compost, and digging small trenches and holes to direct and retain water). I also expect to add additional projects as I learn more about my village and it’s needs and resources. I would say the biggest challenge I’ve been dealing with is just not knowing what I can do to help my villagers, and having to be patient with myself to learn the language, know the village, and understand the people before I can really begin working, Pretty much the first year of Peace Corps service is adjusting, adapting, learning, and observing before any big projects can successfully be implemented. One college friend sent a letter with the advice to “allow God to teach through you.” I worry a lot if I have enough knowledge and skills to bring to my village, so this bit of advice is something I try to remind myself every day.

Rats and Visiting Neighbors

Feb 10, 2010
It’s 4:20 am and I’m on a rat hunt with my head lamp on and broom in hand. I woke up to such commotion that I first thought a person was trying to break into my house. However, anything that hits my tin roof always sounds 10x bigger than it really is so now I know it’s not people, it’s rats. Rain often sounds like a hurricane, but now I’ve learned to love and appreciate that sound because I know it’s going into the new storage well I had built.
Back to the rats…I couldn’t sleep through this rat invasion because I worried about them getting into my prized packages of American food that I just received from the states. When I walked into my kitchen I discovered that rats the size of my cat are able to climb walls. I then went to the room where I store all my papers and books and found two more under the corner of my roof. So I began throwing pens at them…not sure if it did any good. If my cat wasn’t so busy stuffing his face with sardines, he might have done something to help with the rats. However, he’s still pretty small. A little off the rat subject, but I’ve heard from several volunteers that kids have killed their cats. Not sure if this was just kids’ idea of fun, but I’ve also heard that people are jealous that these PCVs’ cats are fed better than most villagers or children. Hopefully I won’t run into this problem, but yesterday a man jokingly remarked he’d kill my cat for supper. I replied in not so nice English…sometimes I take advantage of villagers not being able to understand English. It’s one of the few times I don’t worry about thinking and saying things aloud.
Last night I sat and talked with my neighbors/primary teachers awhile. I try to get out between 4-6 pm to mingle with the villagers. Like usual, Teacher Hittu and Mama Hittu were working on a bottle of homemade coconut alcohol. Mama Hittu calls it “soda”. Anyway it was brought up that teacher Mpodi was getting married the end of February. Being curious, I asked Mpodi how much her fiancé paid in order to get permission from her uncle (her dad passed away). The teachers all got a big kick out of me naming off what I thought was a good price for Mpodi…200,000 shillings and 2 goats. Poor Mama Hittu joked that she was only worth 5,000 shillings (less than $4). Maybe she wasn’t joking L.
Afterwards I stopped by to visit Mama and Baba Bushiri. Mama was putting some sort of medicine from a nearby tree on Shalima’s back (her 17 yr old daughter). I’m not sure what the medicine was for, but mama drank it too. Baba Bush was in his spot under the shade tree, drinking cashew apple liquor as usual. Shalima was so excited to see me that she even started dancing. I had been gone for two weeks in Iringa for training. I think they really missed the entertainment I provide every time I come to visit.
I then went on my way to visit Mama Ester. I was stopped by an overly enthusiastic or always intoxicated old neighbor lady…I can never tell, maybe it’s both. I usually just grin big and shake her hand while she rattles off half in Kiswahili and half in Kimakonde (local language). Not to mention she’s completely toothless, which makes it all the more difficult to understand. Maybe I’ll understand her toothless, mixed lingo by the end of my two years. After breaking free from this curious conversation, I came across 4 men sitting around a bottle of pombe (alcohol). I greeted them in Kimakonde and as soon as they heard this they quickly fired back more Kimakonde than I know. I listened for a bit, but then kindly reminded them that I first would like to perfect my Kiswahili and then I’d attempt to tackle Kimakonde. I often have to remind villagers I’m not ready to take on a full Kimakonde lesson which they all seem so eager to teach me.
After a few last greetings, I freed myself from the Kimakonda lesson and made my way to the main dirt road that goes through the center of Namiyonga. I made sure to double check for the few cars and motorcycles that go by, and any passing bicycle traffic (although usually I know if a bicycle is close because the rider makes a kissing noise, something you’d hear a rancher do to a horse to get it moving). They also use this noise to get someone’s attention, kind of like a wolf whistle, so I find it extremely offensive if I hear a guy making this noise at me from a distance.
Anyway, I crossed the road to greet Mama Ester. Mama and Baba Ester have become my family in Namiyonga. Baba Ester speaks surprisingly good English, so he’s a lot of help when I don’t know how to say an English phrase in Kiswahili. Of course, like most Tanzanian men, Baba Ester’s English increases after a few swigs of strong pombe. Mama Ester knows little English, but she is the most upbeat person. I have no idea where she gets all that energy from since she works every morning at her farm, and cooks and cleans the rest of the time. Their daughter Ester is one of my favorites. She’s eager to learn more than what she gets in class, and she acts much more calm and mature than most kids her age. A few days ago I translated a letter she wrote to send to my American family. Her goal is to be able to write a letter in English herself after three months. The night that I visited was really special b/c after I arrived and we said all our usual greetings, Baba Ester handed me a large sour sop; fruit he actually had to pay for. Then Mama went inside the house to stuff eggplant, squash, mangoes, and an enormous cucumber (here cukes grow the size of zucchini and don’t get bitter with size) into my small bag. Baba then gave me a short speech in his broken English saying that whenever I come to their place, I am at home and can just walk in and say “hi Mama” “hi Baba” and feel at home. He said at first they didn’t know what to expect when they heard that some white girl was coming to live in Namiyonga. They all thought I would be very different from them. But then he went on to say “but you are a negro just like us, and you are a part of this family.”
So that’s how my night went…just another normal evening visiting neighbors. I can already see that I will really have a hard time saying goodbye to my villagers. Namiyonga will always have a place in my heart.
A side note…during the time I’ve spent writing this, I’ve counted 3 large rats. Issa, my cat, is curled up in my lap purring happily. Oh well! I’ll continue throwing pens at them until they go away. The rats have just been bad these last few days because I was gone for training for two weeks and made the mistake of leaving corn seed out that I hoped to plant when getting back (they ate it all). Rats are not something I’ll miss about Namiyonga!