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Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Final Letters Home
June 20, 2011
It’s about 64 degrees, but the sun is going down and the breeze is cool. Issa is curled up on my lap because he’s freezing! I’m going to be a big whimp once I go back to NE. I’ll probably start wearing sweaters in late August! I’m grateful I got placed to serve in a warm climate.
You asked if ugali tastes like tapioca. Unfortunately, no. There are two types of ugali: maize and cassava. The cassava they grow here is the sweet cassava that you can eat. The bitter cassava for tapioca is not grown here, but I’ve heard of West African countries that have it. The whole point of ugali is to fill you up on cheap carbohydrates/starches. Ugali feels like a rock in your stomach because it’s so heavy and filling. It’s tasteless, and is used as an edible spoon to dip into a tomato sauce with some sort of leafy green or meat. Here it’s usually dry fish or goat meat.
Issa has not been behaving. He can’t seem to forget how delicious that last chick was. He brought in another chick yesterday and ate it whole. He hid under my bed so I couldn’t get to him! I found a new owner for Issa after I leave. Hope it goes well. She’s got chicks like everyone does in the village. If he kills her chickens, they’ll just kill Issa. Issa is a father again. Aisha, Mama Esta’s Muslim-named cat, is expecting. I hope she will give birth before I leave. Mam Esta sells the kittens for 1000 tsh (about 70 cents). People in my village normally make 500 tsh a day, so that’s one dollar every three days.
Teachers here have less requirements, so they start teaching when they’re young (19 and up). My teacher neighbor only finished Standard 7, but he’s somehow qualified to teach. There are lots of young teachers in secondary schools (high schools), especially in the south because living conditions are poorer and less desirable, so they send the younger teachers down here. The secondary schools are like what our colleges used to be. Very few people can afford it, and many don’t see it as necessary. But, they are becoming more popular. The two secondary schools near me were built less than a decade ago. No wonder TZ is so far behind when few people study past high school.
We (group of Peace Corps Volunteers) had an interesting chat at Close of Service conference in May. Most of the men in my class now find African women more attractive than US women. The women in my group, however, still find American men more attractive, mainly because of equality in the relationship, and expectance for men to have responsibility for kids. Unlike in America, TZ men are attracted to young single women with children because they know there are no expectations for them to raise those children. It’s the women’s job. Both men and women here are very attractive. I only fell in love with one Tanzanian, and that’s my cat Issa. I’ll be sad to part from him. Oh well, I’m sure there are 20+ inbred cats on the farm I can bond with once I get home! But with no rats at home, I won’t need a cat to be able to sleep at night.
I’m starting to stock up on kumbukumbus (memories) like carvings, jewelry, drum, and baskets. Today I planted an umbrella tree on primary school grounds. It was the teacher’s idea to plant a tree in memory of me. I told them they’d have to name the tree “Kristina”.
School is out for winter break, so I’ve been busy cleaning and organizing my things. I’m selling everything that I’m not taking home. I figured I could give my villagers the opportunity to buy kitchen supplies and furniture at a reduced price. Plus, I could use some extra shillings as well. Villagers come over to my house in secret during late evening hours to buy clothes, dishes, and furniture. They’re afraid other villagers will see their purchases and then ask them for money (because the villagers who come to my house obviously have money if they are able to buy something from me). Tanzania is based on communal society. Villagers rely on neighbors and extended family members whenever there is a need. To borrow is very common, yet whatever was borrowed might not be returned for years. It’s frowned on by their culture to say “no”. That’s why villagers try to hide what they don’t want to share. Or, they lie in order to avoid lending something. Tanzanians communal personality is a positive thing since it brings togetherness and builds a close community. However, it also hinders progression because an individual cannot get ahead by him or herself. He’ll have to bring his whole family with him; in other words, distribute his earnings with family, even extended family. In America it’s easy to get ahead because we’re an individualistic society. Everyone is on their own. If you fail, it’s your own fault. If you succeed, it’s because of your efforts. So much depends on the individual. But, it can be a stressful way to live.
I’ve really enjoyed living in another culture. There is so much to learn about your own country, when you’re outside of your country. There were so many things I took for granted or just didn’t notice because I thought it was “normal”. But looking from the outside, America is an incredibly fast-paced and efficient country. And America has so much wealth! But, we also have problems that many countries don’t seem to have, like eating disorders (Tanzanians can’t fathom why someone would want to vomit to be thin) and a large number of people suffering from depression. And, our obsession with youth and lack of respect for our elders and their wisdom. Overall, I’ve learned there is no perfect place. Every country has its advantages and disadvantages.
June 24, 2011
Thanks for the package you sent. The dictionaries are great. I’ve allowed the Form 2 students to borrow them during their after school sessions. I appreciate the processed American food because it saves so much time. I don’t think I’ll miss starting up the jiko and getting coal residue all over my hands every time I bake. I’m looking forward to the many conveniences in America, although there will be plenty of things I’ll miss about Tanzania. I can’t believe it’s almost July already! I’ve been busy every day organizing my things, selling furniture, clothes, and dishes, and writing my last letters. I’m trying to do everything this month and early July, so I can just relax and enjoy my remaining time with my villagers. It feels good to complete my service, but it’s going to be painful to say goodbye, knowing I’ll never be back again. Everyone says I should stay in TZ, find work, and get married here. That would be interesting….you can tell Grandma I’m thinking about it! (Just kidding)
It’s lower 60’s tonight. My neighbors are all huddled around a fire. This is the coldest part of the year…June, July, and August. We’ve all got colds, but that beats malaria, which is common during the rainy season. It’s also school break until mid-July. So, there has been a lot of all-night drumming; the favorite pastime for the Makonde tribe. Tomorrow there’s a drumming exorcism scheduled. Apparently, some lady’s got demons she needs to get out, and that will require a lot of dancing!
Agnes (my Ward Executive Officer) and I went to Newala two days ago and bought our sherehe (goodbye party) outfits. Several of the village women will have it sewn into matching outfits. (We’re also going to get our hair braided for the party.) It’s a really weird material, a mix between paper and plastic. Our other choice was a plain satin material, but I thought that was worse. It’s going to be strange to buy all my clothing in stores in the US, and not have to haggle the price.
I just got done taking a bucket bath. Lately there have been 2 rats in my courtyard choo and bafu (bathroom). So I’ve started to put Issa on top of the wall between them to stand guard for rodents.
Well, this is my last letter. I’ve got 37 days left in my village. I’ll be going through a lot of mixed emotions, but I feel ready to go home home. See you in August!
June 25, 2011
I’m sure you are enjoying the warm weather after such a cold, miserable winter. I’m really going to miss Namiyonga weather. It’s almost perfect; never too cold (only gets to low 60’s) and it’s only unbearably hot if you’re out in the sun because the sun is so intense near the equator. The flowers are beautiful, especially the vibrant red cannas. There are a few things I won’t miss about living in a tropical area. Number one….snakes! I had bad luck this year with snakes, mostly because it rained so much and flooded their underground homes. Three snakes came into my courtyard during the course of one month, and one of those snakes made its way to my bedroom. I’m still paranoid about stepping on a snake in my house. Number two….rats! Yesterday I had probably the most disturbing encounter with a rat that I’ve had throughout my two years here. I was in my choo (toilet) and a large rat came up from the sewer pipe and ran right underneath me! Now I expect a rat to run out from the sewage hole every time I use the choo. I’ve gotten into the habit of bringing Issa with me every time I use the choo or bucket bath so he can stand guard for large rodents.
Today was the first day we put books in the library. The library is finished except for ceiling boards, which should be installed before July. This morning a Mtwara magazine reporter came to take pictures of the library. Students from primary and secondary schools came with their uniforms on to get pictures of them utilizing the library. The reporter was very impressed to see a library in a primary school. It might be the only primary library in the Mtwara region. The secondary school is out in the bush and wouldn’t be safe for girls to walk out there in the evenings to study. Last year four girls in Form 2 (9th grade) got pregnant and were forced to leave school and never study again. This year five girls in Form 3 (10th grade) got pregnant and aborted so that they could continue to study. Abortion is illegal here; however, Tanzania’s law to not allow girls to continue their education once they become pregnant, only serves to encourage abortion. The fathers of these girls’ children are often older, out –of- school youth, or older men. They even have a term for these men …“fatak . It’s a national problem-older men persuading young school girls to have sex by giving them a phone, new clothes, or money. My students’ community theatre group often uses this topic in their dramas because it’s such a common problem here. There’s also a problem with girls’ lack of self-esteem. They don’t feel empowered to say “no”.
Tomorrow I’m going to Mtwara to stay at the beach house one last time. I’ll meet up with another PCV in my area who will COS (close of service) the same time I will. After we COS, we plan on going to Tanga to say a final goodbye to our host families, and then safari in Ngorongoro Crater and possibly Lake Mnyara. We’ll also go through Moshi so I can see Mt. Kilimanjaro before I leave. I can’t believe how fast the time is going. It will be an emotional roller coaster saying goodbye to my teachers, students, and villagers, yet it will be exciting to go back home. Grandma, you can plan on me coming over for popcorn and movie nights!
It’s about 64 degrees, but the sun is going down and the breeze is cool. Issa is curled up on my lap because he’s freezing! I’m going to be a big whimp once I go back to NE. I’ll probably start wearing sweaters in late August! I’m grateful I got placed to serve in a warm climate.
You asked if ugali tastes like tapioca. Unfortunately, no. There are two types of ugali: maize and cassava. The cassava they grow here is the sweet cassava that you can eat. The bitter cassava for tapioca is not grown here, but I’ve heard of West African countries that have it. The whole point of ugali is to fill you up on cheap carbohydrates/starches. Ugali feels like a rock in your stomach because it’s so heavy and filling. It’s tasteless, and is used as an edible spoon to dip into a tomato sauce with some sort of leafy green or meat. Here it’s usually dry fish or goat meat.
Issa has not been behaving. He can’t seem to forget how delicious that last chick was. He brought in another chick yesterday and ate it whole. He hid under my bed so I couldn’t get to him! I found a new owner for Issa after I leave. Hope it goes well. She’s got chicks like everyone does in the village. If he kills her chickens, they’ll just kill Issa. Issa is a father again. Aisha, Mama Esta’s Muslim-named cat, is expecting. I hope she will give birth before I leave. Mam Esta sells the kittens for 1000 tsh (about 70 cents). People in my village normally make 500 tsh a day, so that’s one dollar every three days.
Teachers here have less requirements, so they start teaching when they’re young (19 and up). My teacher neighbor only finished Standard 7, but he’s somehow qualified to teach. There are lots of young teachers in secondary schools (high schools), especially in the south because living conditions are poorer and less desirable, so they send the younger teachers down here. The secondary schools are like what our colleges used to be. Very few people can afford it, and many don’t see it as necessary. But, they are becoming more popular. The two secondary schools near me were built less than a decade ago. No wonder TZ is so far behind when few people study past high school.
We (group of Peace Corps Volunteers) had an interesting chat at Close of Service conference in May. Most of the men in my class now find African women more attractive than US women. The women in my group, however, still find American men more attractive, mainly because of equality in the relationship, and expectance for men to have responsibility for kids. Unlike in America, TZ men are attracted to young single women with children because they know there are no expectations for them to raise those children. It’s the women’s job. Both men and women here are very attractive. I only fell in love with one Tanzanian, and that’s my cat Issa. I’ll be sad to part from him. Oh well, I’m sure there are 20+ inbred cats on the farm I can bond with once I get home! But with no rats at home, I won’t need a cat to be able to sleep at night.
I’m starting to stock up on kumbukumbus (memories) like carvings, jewelry, drum, and baskets. Today I planted an umbrella tree on primary school grounds. It was the teacher’s idea to plant a tree in memory of me. I told them they’d have to name the tree “Kristina”.
School is out for winter break, so I’ve been busy cleaning and organizing my things. I’m selling everything that I’m not taking home. I figured I could give my villagers the opportunity to buy kitchen supplies and furniture at a reduced price. Plus, I could use some extra shillings as well. Villagers come over to my house in secret during late evening hours to buy clothes, dishes, and furniture. They’re afraid other villagers will see their purchases and then ask them for money (because the villagers who come to my house obviously have money if they are able to buy something from me). Tanzania is based on communal society. Villagers rely on neighbors and extended family members whenever there is a need. To borrow is very common, yet whatever was borrowed might not be returned for years. It’s frowned on by their culture to say “no”. That’s why villagers try to hide what they don’t want to share. Or, they lie in order to avoid lending something. Tanzanians communal personality is a positive thing since it brings togetherness and builds a close community. However, it also hinders progression because an individual cannot get ahead by him or herself. He’ll have to bring his whole family with him; in other words, distribute his earnings with family, even extended family. In America it’s easy to get ahead because we’re an individualistic society. Everyone is on their own. If you fail, it’s your own fault. If you succeed, it’s because of your efforts. So much depends on the individual. But, it can be a stressful way to live.
I’ve really enjoyed living in another culture. There is so much to learn about your own country, when you’re outside of your country. There were so many things I took for granted or just didn’t notice because I thought it was “normal”. But looking from the outside, America is an incredibly fast-paced and efficient country. And America has so much wealth! But, we also have problems that many countries don’t seem to have, like eating disorders (Tanzanians can’t fathom why someone would want to vomit to be thin) and a large number of people suffering from depression. And, our obsession with youth and lack of respect for our elders and their wisdom. Overall, I’ve learned there is no perfect place. Every country has its advantages and disadvantages.
June 24, 2011
Thanks for the package you sent. The dictionaries are great. I’ve allowed the Form 2 students to borrow them during their after school sessions. I appreciate the processed American food because it saves so much time. I don’t think I’ll miss starting up the jiko and getting coal residue all over my hands every time I bake. I’m looking forward to the many conveniences in America, although there will be plenty of things I’ll miss about Tanzania. I can’t believe it’s almost July already! I’ve been busy every day organizing my things, selling furniture, clothes, and dishes, and writing my last letters. I’m trying to do everything this month and early July, so I can just relax and enjoy my remaining time with my villagers. It feels good to complete my service, but it’s going to be painful to say goodbye, knowing I’ll never be back again. Everyone says I should stay in TZ, find work, and get married here. That would be interesting….you can tell Grandma I’m thinking about it! (Just kidding)
It’s lower 60’s tonight. My neighbors are all huddled around a fire. This is the coldest part of the year…June, July, and August. We’ve all got colds, but that beats malaria, which is common during the rainy season. It’s also school break until mid-July. So, there has been a lot of all-night drumming; the favorite pastime for the Makonde tribe. Tomorrow there’s a drumming exorcism scheduled. Apparently, some lady’s got demons she needs to get out, and that will require a lot of dancing!
Agnes (my Ward Executive Officer) and I went to Newala two days ago and bought our sherehe (goodbye party) outfits. Several of the village women will have it sewn into matching outfits. (We’re also going to get our hair braided for the party.) It’s a really weird material, a mix between paper and plastic. Our other choice was a plain satin material, but I thought that was worse. It’s going to be strange to buy all my clothing in stores in the US, and not have to haggle the price.
I just got done taking a bucket bath. Lately there have been 2 rats in my courtyard choo and bafu (bathroom). So I’ve started to put Issa on top of the wall between them to stand guard for rodents.
Well, this is my last letter. I’ve got 37 days left in my village. I’ll be going through a lot of mixed emotions, but I feel ready to go home home. See you in August!
June 25, 2011
I’m sure you are enjoying the warm weather after such a cold, miserable winter. I’m really going to miss Namiyonga weather. It’s almost perfect; never too cold (only gets to low 60’s) and it’s only unbearably hot if you’re out in the sun because the sun is so intense near the equator. The flowers are beautiful, especially the vibrant red cannas. There are a few things I won’t miss about living in a tropical area. Number one….snakes! I had bad luck this year with snakes, mostly because it rained so much and flooded their underground homes. Three snakes came into my courtyard during the course of one month, and one of those snakes made its way to my bedroom. I’m still paranoid about stepping on a snake in my house. Number two….rats! Yesterday I had probably the most disturbing encounter with a rat that I’ve had throughout my two years here. I was in my choo (toilet) and a large rat came up from the sewer pipe and ran right underneath me! Now I expect a rat to run out from the sewage hole every time I use the choo. I’ve gotten into the habit of bringing Issa with me every time I use the choo or bucket bath so he can stand guard for large rodents.
Today was the first day we put books in the library. The library is finished except for ceiling boards, which should be installed before July. This morning a Mtwara magazine reporter came to take pictures of the library. Students from primary and secondary schools came with their uniforms on to get pictures of them utilizing the library. The reporter was very impressed to see a library in a primary school. It might be the only primary library in the Mtwara region. The secondary school is out in the bush and wouldn’t be safe for girls to walk out there in the evenings to study. Last year four girls in Form 2 (9th grade) got pregnant and were forced to leave school and never study again. This year five girls in Form 3 (10th grade) got pregnant and aborted so that they could continue to study. Abortion is illegal here; however, Tanzania’s law to not allow girls to continue their education once they become pregnant, only serves to encourage abortion. The fathers of these girls’ children are often older, out –of- school youth, or older men. They even have a term for these men …“fatak . It’s a national problem-older men persuading young school girls to have sex by giving them a phone, new clothes, or money. My students’ community theatre group often uses this topic in their dramas because it’s such a common problem here. There’s also a problem with girls’ lack of self-esteem. They don’t feel empowered to say “no”.
Tomorrow I’m going to Mtwara to stay at the beach house one last time. I’ll meet up with another PCV in my area who will COS (close of service) the same time I will. After we COS, we plan on going to Tanga to say a final goodbye to our host families, and then safari in Ngorongoro Crater and possibly Lake Mnyara. We’ll also go through Moshi so I can see Mt. Kilimanjaro before I leave. I can’t believe how fast the time is going. It will be an emotional roller coaster saying goodbye to my teachers, students, and villagers, yet it will be exciting to go back home. Grandma, you can plan on me coming over for popcorn and movie nights!
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